Winexpert vintners reserve chianti

[oliver90owner]

What do the instructions say? Normally when everything is in there, it's left to settle.

Beaverdale say degassing first speeds up the clearing phase, but they are careful to explain how the clearing agents are added (no vigorous shaking at the final stage mentioned, I believe).

For reproducibility, they supply instructions that should work for all to achieve the same quality wine - with a method that has been proven to work with their product.

[madmatt]

?

Should I degass this again over the next few days, or leave it now, as all packets have now been added?

Matt

[oliver90owner]

Very different to Beaverdale kits as in the destruction ... leaving to settle for 2 weeks , then bottle. ... Beaverdale kits I degassed a couple of times a day for 3 days before adding chitosan.

Purely a different means to get to the same end.

Time from start to drinking is the name of the game for many, and there won't be so much difference in the long run.

Lets face it, older (as in making wine for a lot longer) wine makers likely simplyracked as necessary and left the DJs to settle in their own time; and added virtually nothing extra to the wine apart from the initial ingredients (fruit, sugar, yeast and water) until maybe some 'adjustments' when matured. If the wine is far better matured for a few months (and it is) there is no need to rush things.

[Cellar_Rat]

following on from what Bob said, here are a few other things that dramatically affect it too..

Amount of yeast.

I have made 300 L on 5 g of dried yeast - there is a lag while the yeast multiplies. although not as long as you might think.
Rehydrating method - sprinkle or rehydrating in warm water. The latter is best, but both work.
Sugar content - high sugar readings will slow the yeast down ( particularly if you sprinkle)
Sulphite levels - nuff said.

[madmatt]

Ok, I've finally got round to the next stage. (S.g. at 0.992)Very different to Beaverdale kits as in the destruction state to add metabisulphate and sorbate, degass for 2 minutes, then add chitosan, then degass for 2 mins more before topping up and leaving to settle for 2 weeks , then bottle.

Now with my (successful) Beaverdale kits I degassed a couple of times a day for 3 days before adding chitosan.

Should I give the wine a good whipping for a couple of days before leaving to settle? I did give it a lot more than 2 mins with the drill but still, didn't degass as much as I did with the Beaverdale.

What are your thoughts/experiences?

Regards

Matt

[madmatt]

Many thanks guys,

Thought that was the case but didn't want to risk losing a batch.

Very different activity compared to beaverdale, much more movement after racking, with a sudden stop at day 3/4

Looking good now though

Thanks again guys

Matt

[lockwood1956]

Hi Matt


Extending the timeline of the instructions at this point will not do any harm, the "days" in the instructions are only a guide

regards
bob

[oliver90owner]

What is a week when it will improve for at least another 25, and likely another 25 after that?

Already racked off, so away from most of the lees. No bother at all.

[madmatt]

Hi all, well it's been 10 days since racking into the carboy, the destructions say now is the time to start degassing. If I was to leave this for another few days, up to a week, could this ruin my wine? I have a busy schedule and can't see how I can fit it in(although if the result is the loss of 30 bottles, then believe me I will find time!!)

Matt

P.s it stopped fermenting about 3 days ago

[lockwood1956]

No Matt
the amount of sugar fermented determines the alc content, but the yeast has a huge impact on flavour profile

[madmatt]

the problem is Matt that all ferments are different and are affected by a multitude of things, slightly warmer temps for one (nice to be above zero eh?)

Yeast difference is likely the biggest determining factor here as the beaverdale kits dont come with a top quality yeast, good enough but not top quality, whereas the kit you are making here likely comes with a lalvin or red star yeast.....much better quality stuff



hope that helps

regards
Bob

Hmm, that would make sense! Does that mean this would be higher alcohol content ?

[lockwood1956]

the problem is Matt that all ferments are different and are affected by a multitude of things, slightly warmer temps for one (nice to be above zero eh?)

Yeast difference is likely the biggest determining factor here as the beaverdale kits dont come with a top quality yeast, good enough but not top quality, whereas the kit you are making here likely comes with a lalvin or red star yeast.....much better quality stuff

hope that helps

regards
Bob

[madmatt]

Calibrate your bucket..

Fill your carboy up with water, then pour into bucket and mark it.

Not all carboys are equal. If you have more than one, sort out a system that suits you to know their capacity. (or don't put as much much in the bucket and top up when it's in the carboy)

What a simple yet fantastic idea! Will do this as soon as both are empty!

Anyone else notice more activity in winexpert kits over Beaverdale??

Thanks for replies!

Matt

[Cellar_Rat]

A - sorry missed one out earlier.

[lockwood1956]

On racking into the carboy I ended up pouring about a litre of useable wine away!

eek!

you could have maybe put it into a wine bottle with either an adapted airlock on it, or a balloon with a pinprick as a temporary airlock

my aching heart....useable wine thrown away

Great advice from Rich re calibrating for different sizes

regards
Bob