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Meads _ What Additions

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  • Meads _ What Additions

    Meads --- Additives, yeast (what kinds, amount, reasons, when
    To add – nutrients, energizers, Acid, other additives. Mead Degas?


    ADDITIVES IN MAKING MEAD


     Yeast Nutrient to all Meads at double the manufactures suggestion which is for grapes. – 1 teaspoon per gallon. Mixed into the must 12 hours prior to yeast introduction stirred in gently.
     Yeast energizer to all meads at the recommended amount on the package. Mixed into the must 12 hours prior to yeast introduction stirred in gently.
     A boost addition of yeast nutrient and energizer at ½ the rate of 1/2 the additional amount at approximately 4 days after the primary fermentation begins; when the fermentation starts to slow a little approx 1.040 then is the time for the extra addition (1/2 teaspoon nutrient at this time) and ½ or less addition of energizer. This will keep the yeasties in good condition and multiplying well which will be necessary for the secondary part of the fermentation process. We do not want the fermentation to stick.
     Tartaric Acid to all meads at 1 teaspoon per gallon prior to the start of fermentation. Then when the pH is measured just prior to the pitching of the yeast there may be a requirement to add more tartaric acid to adjust the pH to the required levels. We want a pH of 3.00-3.50 for starting.
     Pectic Enzyme to all meads 1 teaspoon per gallon.
     Grape Tannin to low acid meads and basic meads at 1/8 teaspoon per 5 gallons (not too much of this).
     Sulphite (campden tablets) – 1 tablet crushes and mixed in water and sprinkles on fruit, then an additional 2 tablets of campden after the honey and water mixture has been poured over the fruit or at this time.
     2 ¼ teaspoons of bentonite mixed in a hot water slurry with electric mixer and stirred in the must at the time of sulphite and Pectic enzyme addition.


    ALCOHOL FERMENTATION Complete- DEGAS-FINING STAGE

    After the alcohol fermentation process is complete approximately 21 – 30 days the young mead will be racked out of the glass carboy and back into a clean sterilized primary fermenter. It is much easier unless you use a vacuum pump to do the degassing work with a high speed drill and paint mixer adapter.

    First though you will add another 2 Campden tablets and stir them in gently.
    Then it is time for the degas work – see the attached photos these are examples of what your degas process should look like. You must be careful here not too long to endanger oxidation to set in it generally takes me a maximum of 5 minutes with the 2500 rpm drill both forward and reverse. NOTE: (many do not think it is necessary to degas the Mead – each to their own – works for me)
    When you have completed the degas phase you will carry on to the fining process. I use Bentonite and Sparkeloid for light meads and a product that includes Kieselsol and Chitosan for the darker colored meads. These are mixed into the mead according to the instructions on the packages and the young mead is racked back into a clean and sanitized glass carboy and air lock attached.
    The young mead is put into a cool, dark room until the mead clears; usually within one month and then the mead is racked into a clean sanitized glass carboy leaving all the settlement in the bottom and in the bulk ageing stage. You may have to rack one or two more times during the bulk ageing stage and this could be from 6 months to one year for length of time. Mead will then be tested for pH, Acid and adjusted as necessary. Sulphited, sweetened if necessary and sorbated. The mead will then be siphoned into bottles for the bottle ageing. There will be some testing and drinking during this time but after the initial approximately 6 month bottle shock you will begin to notice the overall efforts of your work.

    Cheers - Enjoy the nectar of the Gods.
    Attached Files
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