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  • Malo-Lactic Culture

    I'm ordering some, from Brouwland
    4007 Malolactic Wine Culture
    (Leuconostoc oenos)
    Malolactic culture with the Leuconostoc oenos ER1A and EY2D strains. Provides rapid and complete conversion of the tart malic acid into the milder and less sharp lactic acid. Is added before the end of the first fermentation (specific gravity < 1.020) and works from pH 2.9 and 12°C.

    When and how to do a malolactic fermentation?
    There are many advantages to malolactic fermentation. However, lactic acid bacteria have completely different environmental requirements than yeasts. Hence a number of important factors are best taken into account if a malolactic fermentation is to proceed properly and smoothly: malolactic fermentation is best started just before the end of the alcoholic fermentation (residual sugar < 4 g/l). The free SO2 content must be a maximum of 10 mg/litre and the total SO2 content a maximum of 30 mg/litre. The pH value of the wine must be at least 3.1 and the alcohol content must be a maximum of 13%vol. Finally, the temperature of the wine is also very important: 17°C or more. Dissolve the freeze-dried cultures in plenty (approx. 10-20 x the weight of powder) of water at 25 °C, stirring constantly. Stir from time to time and after half an hour add it to the wine.



    WYEAST LIQUID WINE YEAST
    "VINTNERS CHOICE"
    It has long been known to brewers: liquid yeasts have a much more pronounced taste profile than dried ones. The Wyeast liquid brewer’s yeasts have acquired worldwide fame and are regularly a "component" of prize-winning beers. With "vintners choice", wine makers too can now use such high quality liquid yeast cultures. The unique "taste-pack" makes it easy (start yeast = squeeze pack and allow to swell) to set up a sterile yeast culture in 12 – 24 hours. Every pack is sufficient to start a maximum of 20 litres of must. A yeast starter can be made up for larger quantities. The "taste-pack" means that it can be stored in the fridge for a long time: 6-12 months from date of manufacture. Clear instructions included.
    each pack does 20 litres, but made up into a starter, it would be able to do much larger quantities, but to be honest, I'm not sure how much it could be stretched, as it isnt like making up a "normal" starter.....

    I bought 4 packets, hope they arrive in time

    if anyone has any info on the subject of MLF culture starters then i would appreciate it.
    N.G.W.B.J.
    Member of 5 Towns Wine and Beer Makers Society (Yorkshire's newest)
    Wine, mead and beer maker

  • #2
    Does this help, Bob?


    home brew, home brewing, beer ingredients, homebrew, beer kits, beer equipment,brewing equipment


    I usually start making cultures about 2-3 days before it will be added. I like the ratio in the Vinquiry paper: 25% de-chlorinated water, 25% apple juice (lots of malic), and 50% of whatever the culture will be added to (grape juice, finished wine, etc.).
    Last edited by NorthernWiner; 09-09-2009, 02:59 PM.
    Steve

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    • #3
      I knew it would be your good self answering

      I just didnt have time to google it this morning before I left for work

      cheers dude that helps a great deal.

      top banana

      Last edited by lockwood1956; 09-09-2009, 04:35 PM.
      N.G.W.B.J.
      Member of 5 Towns Wine and Beer Makers Society (Yorkshire's newest)
      Wine, mead and beer maker

      Comment


      • #4
        My real issue is with nutrient additions, i have not seen ML nutrient for sale in the UK, nor fdo Brouwland seem to stock it.

        Aminao acids are the thing right?
        and spent yeast hulls.

        so I was thinking, Vitamon Ultra contains amino acids (but are they the right type?) and i could add some spent yeast cells from a previous fementation?


        hmmmm

        does the panel think that Vitamon Ultra will be good enough nutrient for MLF?

        .
        vitamon ultra erbsloh 1

        Perfectly balanced mixture with yeast nutritive salt, vitamin B1, yeast cell extract and yeast cell walls. Absorbs fermentation inhibitors (spray residues), increases the available nitrogen for the yeast cells and improves the cell reproduction. Ensures a fast and clean fermentation without residual sugar.
        Absorbs fermentation inhibitors (spray residues), increases the available nitrogen for the yeast cells and improves the cell reproduction. Ensures a fast and clean fermentation without residual sugar.
        Last edited by lockwood1956; 09-09-2009, 05:07 PM.
        N.G.W.B.J.
        Member of 5 Towns Wine and Beer Makers Society (Yorkshire's newest)
        Wine, mead and beer maker

        Comment


        • #5
          I think as long as it doesn't contain any nitrogen (which malolactic bacteria can't use), it's probably fine.

          I see a lot of mention of ML nutrients but, the truth is, I only use them if malolactic is stuck. Most of the time, a layer of fine lees is all you really need for nutrients.
          Steve

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          • #6
            I was thinking of adding early, but then rethought and might add after pressing...at what point do you add ML culture Steve?
            N.G.W.B.J.
            Member of 5 Towns Wine and Beer Makers Society (Yorkshire's newest)
            Wine, mead and beer maker

            Comment


            • #7
              For me, it really depends on the grapes.

              If there are any parameters that might cause problems with ML, for example, high acid, or the potential for alcohol greater than 14%-ish, then I inoculate mid-fermentation. Most of the grapes I buy from local sources are acidic, so they fall into this category.

              Otherwise I wait until after pressing and settling, and inoculate once I put it to bed in barrel or carboys.

              According to some experts, there is a slight risk of stuck ferment adding ML culture mid-fermentation, however, in almost 9 years I've never once had a problem doing so.
              Steve

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              • #8
                Well ...

                the grapes look like being acid at around 6 to 7g/l Brix at 22 so im thinking we are good to go later.

                I read also about the potential for spoilage adding too early, and it was this that pushed me towards adding at pressing time, or maybe just before, perhaps brix level of about 5 or 6
                N.G.W.B.J.
                Member of 5 Towns Wine and Beer Makers Society (Yorkshire's newest)
                Wine, mead and beer maker

                Comment


                • #9
                  I think you're making the right choice.

                  Adding after or toward the end of ferment is preferred, unless there is a specific reason to do otherwise.
                  Last edited by NorthernWiner; 09-09-2009, 06:56 PM.
                  Steve

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                  • #10
                    Well .....

                    I have added an MLF culture each of the last 4 years, and not had much success.......

                    I think the conditions have not been quite right re PH alc content etc

                    this year I'm going to try harder
                    N.G.W.B.J.
                    Member of 5 Towns Wine and Beer Makers Society (Yorkshire's newest)
                    Wine, mead and beer maker

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Way to persevere!

                      The starter should help. At least you'll know if your culture is alive and kicking... although ML bacteria don't actually kick much. Mostly they just lay there and smell like cheese.

                      ML is a funny thing.
                      Steve

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Well....

                        i've had the cheesy smell, and the fizz when ear piut to DJ, but when tested (Accuvin) they still show 160 on the test...


                        (maybe the test kits are duff)

                        maybe I need a chromatography kit?
                        N.G.W.B.J.
                        Member of 5 Towns Wine and Beer Makers Society (Yorkshire's newest)
                        Wine, mead and beer maker

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          When using the Accuvin test, you are looking at the side of the strip with the little circle, right?

                          I have to ask that, because there was a recent discussion on another forum where many people were reading the wrong side of the strip and thinking that the ML wasn't complete, when it really was.

                          It should also be noted that the Accuvin strips have a shelf life. I don't remember what it is... a year?

                          I don't like chromatography much myself. Too many stinky chemicals, futzing about, and advance planning required. I'm more of a "get it over quickly" sort of personality I guess.
                          Steve

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by NorthernWiner View Post
                            When using the Accuvin test, you are looking at the side of the strip with the little circle, right?
                            yes..

                            i met mike (owner of accuvin) at the Winepress.US winefest and i told him of my problem, he said there had been a bad batch of test kits, so they sent me a new kit (free) but the results were the same ...he asked me if i was looking at the correct side too
                            N.G.W.B.J.
                            Member of 5 Towns Wine and Beer Makers Society (Yorkshire's newest)
                            Wine, mead and beer maker

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              OK my Wyeast Oenococcus Oeni cultures arrived today (4 of them)

                              will prepare starter cultures in the am (want to make zero mistakes)

                              50% finished wine 25% Apple juice 25% water......

                              Will add a chunk of fine lees from a wine No1 (after racking it of course)


                              then let her rip for three days or so, and add to the wine. (smelling for cheese and listening for the fizz)
                              N.G.W.B.J.
                              Member of 5 Towns Wine and Beer Makers Society (Yorkshire's newest)
                              Wine, mead and beer maker

                              Comment

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