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Time line for making Red Grape wine

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  • Time line for making Red Grape wine

    Red Wine

    Optional parts of the process in red text

    Process Grapes
    - Inspect grapes and remove unwanted grapes, leaves, debris and mold.
    - Crush and de-stem grapes and place into Fermentation vessel
    - Add colour/flavour extracting enzymes

    Testing
    - Test TA, SUGAR LEVELS/BRIX, PH –make necessary adjustments.
    - Desired TA is 6.0 to 8.0 g/l measured as tartaric acid (3.9 – 5.2 g/L as sulphuric acid..see your test kit documentation to determine which acid it expresses TA as)
    - Desired BRIX is 23 to 25.
    - Desired pH 3.3 to 3.6.
    - Add tartaric acid if necessary. Addition of 1 g/l of tartaric acid raises the TA level by 1 (expressed as Tartaric)
    - Add metabisulphite at rate of 25-50 ppm 1/2 to 1 campden tablet per gallon...or 2.5 to 5ml 10% sulphite solution. (keep it at the lower end if you intend to innoculate for MLF)
    - Note: If pH is higher than 3.6, more metabisulphite may be needed (higher pH means more susceptability to spoilage organisms) If malolactic fermentation is desired later, adding less or no metabisulphite should be considered (risky strategy, but many consider it worth it!)

    Cold Soak (maceration)
    - Add “ice bombs” (sanitised plastic containers filled with water and frozen) at intervals to keep the must at or below 50 degrees F for 3 days or as long as desired. (longer = more colour and phenol extraction)
    - Punch down the cap (crust of grape skins) at least twice a day.
    - CO2 can be injected under the cover to form a CO2 blanket on the wine, and so protect the must from oxidation and spoilage organisms.

    Add Yeast
    - Pick appropriate yeast strain and determine how much is needed. Don't use GP yeast! ......Select a Yeast that is suitable for the varietal you are fermenting.
    - Usually 1 gram per gallon. Usually come in 5 gram packets.
    - Prepare yeast starter (at least 24 hours in advance of pitching)
    - Add yeast nutrient to the must
    - Inoculate the must with the yeast starter. (When the cold soak is complete)

    Fermentation
    - Add Oak
    - Add biolees
    - Add tannin supplements
    - Fermentation temperature should be within the yeast strain parameters. check yeast manufactures list or website.
    - Punch downs at least 2 times per day (more is better)
    - Measure S.G. and temperature everyday to monitor fermentation rate. Add more nutrients if necessary.
    - At about S.G 1.006 add the MLF bacteria if desired. (for successfully MLF pH needs to be above 3.1 and SO2 levels need to be below 20 ppm)


    Press Skins
    - The wine is racked (or pumped) from tank leaving behind the skins and gross lees. (or you could even scoop the skins off the top of the must)
    - Skins are pressed.
    - Allow to settle for 24 hours to allow major lees to settle before racking.
    - Juice added to rest of wine
    - Test TA and pH

    Secondary Fermentation (Malolactic Fermentation)
    - Add MLF culture and MLF nutrients. Desired temperature for MLF is usually between 60 to 75 F, free SO2 should be less than 20 ppm, and pH should be greater than 3.1. Follow the malolactic bacteria strain recommendations of the manufacturer for successful malolactic fermentation.
    - Test for MLF completion. (Test after one month, if not complete test every two weeks thereafter.) specialist test kits available but they are expensive and need to be shipped from America)
    - The conditions that favour ML fermentation also favour the growth of spoilage organisms, so extra care should be taken to ensure the quick completion of the ML fermentation. (if not confident then miss this step out)
    - Once MLF over add SO2 to 50 ppm

    Cold Stabilisation
    - Once MLF is complete wine is racked to carbuoys for move to a cold area, e.g. garage. Test TA, pH.
    - Temperature for cold stabilisation should be in the range of 25 to 39 F (-4 to 4 C) for 3 to 6 weeks.
    - Once tartrates are removed from suspension, rack the wine, test TA and pH

    Ageing
    - Wine is aged (in an oak barrel if you have one) for at least 6 months to 1 year. (Add Oak if you dont have a barrel, in the form of staves, chips or sawdust, taste regularly to get the desired profile, remember you cant take oak back out) Test TA, pH and free SO2. Make necessary adjustments. If additional metabisulphite is necessary it can be added when racking prior to ageing.
    - Add wine to barrel, i.e. “top up” regularly to prevent oxidation/spoilage as some of the wine will evaporate from the barrel (the angels share) leaving an air gap.
    - After ageing in oak is complete, wine can be placed into carbuoys or bottled for consumption. Before transfer to carboys or bottles, Test TA, pH and free SO2. Make any necessary adjustments.
    - Add biolees tannin supplements Tancor Grand Cru if not added previously
    Attached Files
    N.G.W.B.J.
    Member of 5 Towns Wine and Beer Makers Society (Yorkshire's newest)
    Wine, mead and beer maker
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