2011 Ferments

[NorthernWiner]

Waiting a couple of extra days for the cap to drop is not quite the same technique as extended maceration, which may extend skin contact for up to 3 weeks (and requires special equipment to reduce the risk of oxidation). It merely gives your wine a few more days of skin contact before pressing. I often run hot ferments, where the temperature peaks at around 32C. This means that alcoholic fermentation can sometimes be complete in 3 or 4 days, which isn't enough time to extract everything the skins have to offer. If the fruit is ripe and the seeds are fully mature, you won't extract much in the way harsh tannins. However, this is why I caution making sure the fruit is ripe. Green/tan seeds can make for a rough wine that will take many years to reach drinkability.

As you mention, cold soaks are also a good way to extract water soluble phenols and tannins before fermentation begins, however, I've read some studies that question the effectiveness of the technique. A lot of this early color is lost, unless you use color fixing additives.

When the cap "sinks", it doesn't all go to the bottom at once. As fermentation winds down and carbon dioxide is no longer being made, there is not as much to keep the cap buoyant, but there is still enough to keep the cap somewhat afloat and protect the wine from oxidation for a couple of days. As a safeguard, you can also lay cellophane cling wrap on the surface to help retain some of the CO2.

[SiSandrine]

Tonight, when doing my evening punchdown, I treated myself to a crafty snifter of my (acid adjusted) wines. Thought it would be rude to not do so.

Coming along nicely, some of the early earthiness and woodiness has gone from the Sangiovese and flavours, IMO, are well balanced.

Probably won't taste at tomorrow mornings punch down as I have to go to work afterwards.

Good discipline will be required when I come home from work at lunch time tomorrow.

[koomber]

Just as an observation, my cap has made the transformation from floating grape debris to something resembling purple compost.

I'm making a note of it because I don't remember that from last year. Actually I might have remembered if I hadn't formatted my computer and hence my notes (good bye beer recipes, I hardly knew ye. Well I knew you better than most, but that's because I drink most of my beer myself.) I'd like to welcome everyone to my winemaking notebook

Hopefully Bob (or more likely IMHO Rich) won't decide to randomly edit my posts.

Also I measured the acid for the Trebianno that Rob sent.

[NorthernWiner]

Just as an observation, my cap has made the transformation from floating grape debris to something resembling purple compost.

Did you use any sort of pectic enzyme? That will sometimes break down the skins and make the cap a bit mooshy.

[koomber]

Did you use any sort of pectic enzyme? That will sometimes break down the skins and make the cap a bit mooshy.

Spot on there Steve.

[Cellar_Rat]

Toasted.

If the grapes are ripe (brown seeds, good Brix level), I would leave them on the skins until the cap sinks. If at all underripe, I'd press when dry.

Does 1 ounce to the gallon seem OK - Toasting 4 kilo of oak is proving to be a challenge (deep trouble with SWMBO)

[NorthernWiner]

Does 1 ounce to the gallon seem OK - Toasting 4 kilo of oak is proving to be a challenge (deep trouble with SWMBO)

Toasting it in her good oven and smoking up the house, are you?

Yeah, 1 ounce or maybe a little less. With chips, I use 4 ounces for every 5 gallons.

[robwrx]

Whoop! Whoop!

Graham gave me some rather good news this evening. Apparently I am not such a numpty with an acid test kit and has confirmed my figures for the Trebianno.

Being an engineer by trade I like to try and understand and work through problems so without wishing to seem anal, could someone try and explain why my Trebianno has a TA of 5gl and the others have 7gl?

Rob

[Bertie]

Thanks steve for sharing the knowledge ie letting the cap sink. Is what you and cellar rat talking about the amount of oak to put in the primary to reduce 'green/veg taste'? If so just under an ounce per gal then?

[NorthernWiner]

I was talking about oak during aging. For getting rid of green/veg you'd use less. About 2 ounces (56 g) per 100 pounds (45 kg) grape must.

[Cellar_Rat]

Steve,

Hey hey - just a thought - have we got our wires crossed?
I am planning to put toasted oak in the primary fermenter. I have settled on 1kg in 350 litres (must).

The idea is a gentle start, oaking further in stainless if/as required. I am using mature oak split into small staves (pencil sized).

Thanks for your help with this. If you look up a bit later - you should be able to see the stove billowing smoke from there!!

[goldseal]

Sangiovese down to around 7 brix, Merlot and Tempranillo not far behind. Pressing tomorrow, I think.

[Cellar_Rat]

I have just been outside for my morning punch down.

Both my fermenters sit either side of the heater.
Yesterday both 25c
One is 26c one is 32c - how does that work ??!?!?
Must be something to do with the primitivo being REALLY thick - I think it is retains more heat.

Swiftly removes blankets!! Could yet be ice packs @ noon!

[goldseal]

The cap traps a lot of heat. More punchdown should equal less heat.

I have been aiming for 30c, but only achieved it in the Tempranillo. I got to 25c in the Sangiovese, but there seemed to be insufficient mass of must, air temperature and heater capacity to get it any higher.

The Sangiovese temperature is dropping off now, which suggests to me that fermentation is slowing down as it comes to an end.

[Cellar_Rat]

......., air temperature and heater capacity ..........

I have found a small (tiny) electric rad outside the fermenter in a tent by far the best heating solution.