Tinned Beer help...

[Cellar_Rat]

Secondary? Blimey I am being quite a heathen then. 1 week in primary at 20c. One week cool and settle before racking to either bottles or keg. I add priming sugar day 1. None to keg and only 2 pitches (literally) to bottles. Bottle then go back to 20c for a few days. All get 3 weeks at least to age.

[Rich]

Not really a heathen, Komber has a counter flow chiller so will get some trub into the primary. The hops do filter out a fair bit though, but the cold break happens in the chiller as it drops into the fermenting vessel. Racking into a secondary after a few days gets the beer off this trub, and any off flavours it may produce.

I've used the 'double drop' method a couple of times, where the yeast is pitched then the wort is racked after 12 to 18hrs in the primary and splashed into another container to re aerate the wort to promote yeast growth. Not really sure if it made much difference though, but it did leave a lot of crap behind.

[Cellar_Rat]

Not really a heathen, Komber has a counter flow chiller so will get some trub into the primary. The hops do filter out a fair bit though, but the cold break happens in the chiller as it drops into the fermenting vessel. Racking into a secondary after a few days gets the beer off this trub, and any off flavours it may produce.

I've used the 'double drop' method a couple of times, where the yeast is pitched then the wort is racked after 12 to 18hrs in the primary and splashed into another container to re aerate the wort to promote yeast growth. Not really sure if it made much difference though, but it did leave a lot of crap behind.

OOeer feel even more of a heathen now. I do the same for more all grain brews too. Although I can't say I get that much trub after chilling.

After boil I let if settle and cool naturally to 85c.
Boiler has a braided hose filter jobby. At 85c I run it through a coil chiller (v similar) exit temp 14-24. Top up to final vol and achieve 20c. Add started yeast. Beat the cr*p out of it with a plaster paddle on a power drill.
Starts brill every time in about 4-5 hours. Maintain 20c. The rest you know.

[Duffbeer]

I tend towards keg conditioning and then bottling. Rack into a pressure barrel after 3 weeks or so in primary with 25g of sugar. Leave another couple of weeks to clear and prime then add in 20g of sugar dissolved in water and bottle.

More than likely a lack of priming sugar, non carbonated beers such as bitter, ipa ,stout etc should be primed with 2.5g per pint. Carbonated lagers, pilsners, ciders etc should be primed with 5g per pint, all prior to bottling.

The priming sugar you have added to your keg will have already fermented prior to bottling and will not aid in bottle conditioning, the additional 20g is less than 1/2 g per bottle and is not enough to prime. 10 days in the primary fermenter should leave you with a beer clear enough to bottle, there is little point in waiting for the beer to become crystal clear as it will always undergo bottle fermentation.

[koomber]

OOeer feel even more of a heathen now. I do the same for more all grain brews too. Although I can't say I get that much trub after chilling.

After boil I let if settle and cool naturally to 85c.
Boiler has a braided hose filter jobby. At 85c I run it through a coil chiller (v similar) exit temp 14-24. Top up to final vol and achieve 20c. Add started yeast. Beat the cr*p out of it with a plaster paddle on a power drill.
Starts brill every time in about 4-5 hours. Maintain 20c. The rest you know.

I'm not 100% convinced about the issues that are supposed to arrise from the cold break landing in the primary. I always leave the cold break in the beer and I've seen very little difference in the volume of junk left After fermentation. It seems to join the majority of the garbage that sticks to the side of the FV.

One mans 'not much trub' could be another man's 'heaps'. So it's possible that your getting the same amount of cold break as me and Rich, just not classifying it as such.

The formation of the codl break is related to the rate of cooling along with the addition of kettle finings.

[Cellar_Rat]

Koomber - all makes good sense - thank you. Particularly "One mans 'not much trub' could be another man's 'heaps'."

Will carry as was. My OSH has always be v close to the mark, so again - similar to the Wherry - it is ain't broke don't fix it.