I like the pressure gauge idea. I like to know exactly whats happening (ie: sous vide, pid espresso maker, you get the point I suppose having a 10 micron filter (as a pre-filter) in series with a 1 micron filter might be a good idea for people who want to filter alot. Since filters are so cheap, (1-2GBP each), I can afford to filter and throw away.
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Just had a eureka moment, those 10 inch filter housing accommodate carbon blocks. I could use the same system to pre-treat water before kit making. I think it was discussed here already that it really doesn't matter if you pre-treat or not, but I remember Dave mentioning in his talk that pre-treating is vital for beer making.
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Originally posted by krakowmike View Post....but I remember Dave mentioning in his talk that pre-treating is vital for beer making.
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Originally posted by Delmonteman View PostNot necessarily vitalGluten free, caffeine free, dairy free, fat free – you gotta love this red wine diet!
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Interested in this. I have just bought all the ingredients for the Cascade recipe in the beer tutorials section. We have hard water where I am in Hampshire. Does this matter or should I boil it the day before or something?Simon
"I can certainly see that you know your wine. Most of the guests who stay here wouldn't know the difference between Bordeaux and Claret." - Basil Fawlty
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Personally, whilst water treatment can make a big difference to an ale, I would get into the process of making the beer before worrying too much about water treatment. That will then give you a baseline to work and improve from.
You could also completely cut out the middle man and use dried or liquid malt extract instead of mashing grains thereby eliminating the need for water treatment, but relying on the boil to remove temporary hardness and adding one campden tablet per 10 gallon batch to the boil to drive off chlorine/amines.
Bear in mind however that it is 'alkalinity' rather than 'hardness' that you need to be concerned with if you want to go that route and here is an excellent guide.
Though admittedly it all depends on your experience and circumstances etc. It's a bit like the grape wine making thing though - the first time you do it don't worry about oak, mlf, cold soaks etc., just make good quality wine.
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Originally posted by Delmonteman View PostPersonally, whilst water treatment can make a big difference to an ale, I would get into the process of making the beer before worrying too much about water treatment. That will then give you a baseline to work and improve from.
It's a bit like the grape wine making thing though - the first time you do it don't worry about oak, mlf, cold soaks etc., just make good quality wine.
The other thing I would suggest - particularly for cascade ale is do not over extract the hops - I believe this is the cause of off flavours and cloudiness.
There is a HUGE amount of hops in this recipe do not think you are missing anything.
A gentle boil is what is required. Not a hard boil. not a volcanic boil but the gentlest simmer.
IMO an electric boil is better than gas because it is gentler and gives a resting period in between bursts.
I have tried all sorts of things with the same recipe and I'm going back to basics with the next brew.
If you are doing and all grain brew have you read the Bible by Graham Wheeler. Just brilliant. I can recommend page 174 fantastic.
There is a chap round here that knows a bit about the Cascade ale recipe I would be interested to hear his opinions.Gluten free, caffeine free, dairy free, fat free – you gotta love this red wine diet!
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Good weekend for it - your beer should easily be ready for Christmas.Last edited by Cellar_Rat; 14-10-2012, 06:28 AM.Gluten free, caffeine free, dairy free, fat free – you gotta love this red wine diet!
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Originally posted by Cellar_Rat View Post1000000000000000000000000% agree.
The other thing I would suggest - particularly for cascade ale is do not over extract the hops - I believe this is the cause of off flavours and cloudiness.
There is a HUGE amount of hops in this recipe do not think you are missing anything.
A gentle boil is what is required. Not a hard boil. not a volcanic boil but the gentlest simmer.
IMO an electric boil is better than gas because it is gentler and gives a resting period in between bursts.
I have tried all sorts of things with the same recipe and I'm going back to basics with the next brew.
If you are doing and all grain brew have you read the Bible by Graham Wheeler. Just brilliant. I can recommend page 174 fantastic.
There is a chap round here that knows a bit about the Cascade ale recipe I would be interested to hear his opinions.
Sorry i've not noticed this sooner - work a tad ballistic again at moment.
Agree to a certain extent about the boil, however a key component also seems to be a good steep at 80 deg for 30 mins at least (Post-boil) . Key thing here - get a really good hop bed to use as a filter - along with protofoc/Whirlfloc at 15 mins to go before the end of the boil. Are you doing BIAB Brian? If so, are you putting the hops in a bag during the boil....also how are you emptying the boiler? Maybe cloudyness is protein/hot break carry over from the boil?????Last edited by DaveH; 12-10-2012, 06:37 PM."There are 10 types of people who understand Binary; those that do and those that don't.........."
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Originally posted by Delmonteman View PostPersonally, whilst water treatment can make a big difference to an ale, I would get into the process of making the beer before worrying too much about water treatment. That will then give you a baseline to work and improve from.
You could also completely cut out the middle man and use dried or liquid malt extract instead of mashing grains thereby eliminating the need for water treatment, but relying on the boil to remove temporary hardness and adding one campden tablet per 10 gallon batch to the boil to drive off chlorine/amines.
Bear in mind however that it is 'alkalinity' rather than 'hardness' that you need to be concerned with if you want to go that route and here is an excellent guide.
Though admittedly it all depends on your experience and circumstances etc. It's a bit like the grape wine making thing though - the first time you do it don't worry about oak, mlf, cold soaks etc., just make good quality wine."There are 10 types of people who understand Binary; those that do and those that don't.........."
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Filtered about 140L of wine today. It works- sparkle clear! I pushed the wine through the filter instead of drawing. I'm sure this pump could do both, but am not sure that it is designed to draw a vacuum for long periods of time. Each kit took a couple of minutes to filter once everything was setup. I'll post a cost break down of the project later on.
Issues-
1. Wine foams at the end of the filter cycle, make sure you have enough head space.
2. Make sure all your seals are leak proof.
3. Reinforced tubing is stubborn- wonder if I could have gotten away with normal tubing.
4. Filter lasts forever, but threw it out at the end of the session, at 2GBP each, I think I can afford to throw them out after each session. Freezing, drying, keeping it in K-meta until the next filter session sounds too complicated.
5. Having the wifey help is a must
Other than that, I'm quite pleased with the filter. The wines were pretty clean to start with but now they are sparkling which wasn't the case before.
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