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Originally posted by stackmonkey View PostSo last night I racked off the summer fruits for the 2nd time using a syphon and added 1 level teaspoon of pectic enzyme. I filtered through curtain type muslin in the process
The wine has a deep-ish coral colour, seems quite dry to my tastes (I have a sweet tooth) and seems quite light and fruity.
I also racked off the apple wine the same way and also added enzyme to that.
It looks like cloudy urine at the moment, but tastes quite nice and is a little sweeter than the summer fruits one.
Damson port may be the next one to be racked as it seems to have some small white bits in the surface on the wine in one of the demijons (bacterial contamination?)
Advice appreciated in this one, please.
Did you use boiling (or very hot water) in preparation of the must?
did you know the difference between filtering and straining? (not trying to be smart here just establishing the facts) filtering will NOT clear a cloudy wine...fining will do that or it will clear itself if there are no starch/enzyme problems.
Pectolase (bought in the UK ...normally in powdered form) is normally used at the rate of 1 teaspoon per gallon, if added at the beginning, however if you used boiling or very hot water to prepare the must then you will need at least double the ammount of pectic enzyme, if you are adding the enzyme after ferment then you will probably need about 3 to 4 times the ammount
The damson port...
How did you make this? (recipe/method)
do you have photos of the problem?
any additional info would be useful, as many things could cause the problems you describe
Originally posted by jojo View Postwhat is "turbo" cider?
hope all of this helps
please also see the "new members start here" section if you havent seen it allready, for some free downloads and lots of useful information
regards
BobN.G.W.B.J.
Member of 5 Towns Wine and Beer Makers Society (Yorkshire's newest)
Wine, mead and beer maker
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Hello Stackmonkey. Just joined. Turbo Cider? Never come across that one before. Nice idea. I spent three hours trying to squeeze juice out of my daughters orchard apples. Got this hand press(home made), which was bloody hard work. I gave up and juiced the chopped apples in a liquidiser then pressed the pulp. Got a gallon of juice from what seemed like 1,000kgs of apples! I just threw in 3lb of sugar and some yeast. I tell you this story because I like the simplicity of your method. I wish I'd joined the site earlier. Ah well. The apple juice is clearing nicely and I look forward to a taste before Christmas.
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Monkey, it does look somewhat like a mycoderma or other bacterial or viral infection. I say rack to a smaller vessel in which you can keep topped up well and be sure sulphite content is at an aseptic level.REBEL MODERATOR
...lay down the boogie and play that funky music 'til ya die...'til ya die !"
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Originally posted by Nobby View PostI spent three hours trying to squeeze juice out of my daughters orchard apples. Got this hand press(home made), which was bloody hard work. I gave up and juiced the chopped apples in a liquidiser then pressed the pulp. Got a gallon of juice from what seemed like 1,000kgs of apples!
regards
BobN.G.W.B.J.
Member of 5 Towns Wine and Beer Makers Society (Yorkshire's newest)
Wine, mead and beer maker
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We need to establish what levels of sulphite are there I think..
Adding the cordial may well have slowed or even stopped the ferment if the alcohol level in it was greater than the alcohol level present in the Damson, it will have shocked the yeast or even killed it.
Now bear with me here I'm not trying to be clever...it's just lessons learnt as I've gone along (many of them from Hippie)
You need to be methodical and keep notes, regarding Specific gravity temp etc , so you need a hydrometer and a thermometer (they are cheap)
I (like many of our friends across the pond) also record PH levels, Acid levels and Sulphite levels (but then I'm a geek)
there needs to be order in your winemaking.
Doing things randomly will almost always result in things not working properly.
Sulphite is added at the start to prevent wild yeasts from taking hold, it stuns them...too much will also stun the yeast that you add, this is why we wait 24 hours after adding sulphite before adding our yeast, I'm not saying you would never add during ferment, but you shouldn't need to, we add at the end of ferment along with pottasium sorbate, to stabilise the wine and to help it store long term. (normally 1 campden tablet per gallon)
the more organised and methodical you are...the less lost wine there will be.
IMHO (in my humble/honest opinion)
hope this helps
regards
BobN.G.W.B.J.
Member of 5 Towns Wine and Beer Makers Society (Yorkshire's newest)
Wine, mead and beer maker
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I concur with BobLast edited by lockwood1956; 30-10-2007, 03:10 PM.REBEL MODERATOR
...lay down the boogie and play that funky music 'til ya die...'til ya die !"
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1 idea is that fermentation should always be confirmed by a steady drop of SG, read with a hydrometer.
Another is that hopefully fumes from the silicon will not get into the wine. I have used silicon caulk and it will take my breath away.
Record SG with a hydrometer, wait a week, check again. If unchanged, you probably do not even have a slow active fermentation. Let us know please.REBEL MODERATOR
...lay down the boogie and play that funky music 'til ya die...'til ya die !"
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I agree...airlock activity is no indicator of fermentation, S.G. levels measured with a hydrometer or Brix levels measured with a refractometer are the only ways to be sure.
Tape around the base of the bung is not going to seal too well and I would think that is probably where the CO2 is escaping. I would be wary about using silicone sealant too.
Although the ferment may be over and it may be the wine degassing itself that you see.
Try making bungs from optic corks for your smaller necked vessels, I find it works quite well. although you will need to fatten the stem of the airlock with tape wrapped around the stem.
hope this helps
regards
bobN.G.W.B.J.
Member of 5 Towns Wine and Beer Makers Society (Yorkshire's newest)
Wine, mead and beer maker
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