Beaverdale Rojo Tinto - 1st Kit

[Sharpyuk]

That's interesting I've been doing it with the air lock fitted and there are no bubbles, if anything it's bubbled backwards a couple of times..

I also tried taking the bung out after shaking to see if I could hear any hissing like you would expect, but there is nothing.

I suspect it may well be de-gassed then?

The other obvious option would be to take some wine out and shake it in a glass to see if it releases any CO2, but I don't want to loose any more wine and wouldn't put it back afterwards as its not worth the risk.

[oliver90owner]

but I don't want to loose any more wine

Tightwad! I know what you mean, though!

One manufacturer suggests (and likely instructs) to remove samples as for a hydrometer test but either stopper it with a bung or cover with the palm of your hand, shake vigorously and check for pressure release on removal of stopper or hand.

If you are worried about sanitation of your palm you could use some cling film to isolate your hand from the sample.

To be honest, I often use cling film over holed bungs (or under, rather) for stoppering demis, particlarly sitting with metabisulphite solution in them. Two layers, one sealed and pricked with a pin and the second more loosely fitted does nicely for a fermentation in a glass carboy or wine bottle as an alternative to an air lock. I just call it improvisation.

RAB

Forgot to add that I don't like leaving the airlock on - you never know what might be in it, getting sucked back into the wine!

Another tip. I use the two part air locks on most of my kit (shorter than a usual one piece bubbler) but they are good on the plastic fermenters because I can remove the top half when I need to remove the lid or lift the bucket, thereby avoiding any suck back into the fermenter.

[Sharpyuk]

Lol yeah pretty right I know..

Nah, I am more concerned about topping up - although I intend on topping up with a similar wine (store bought Rioja) I don't want to dilute it too much with another wine as it will surely affect the taste..

I know it's probably going to be less than a bottle of wine currently, but if I keep taking it out and testing it then I'm going to end up having to top up with 1.5-2 bottles before I've finished..

I know it's only maybe 5-6% but I want to see how my wine tastes without blending with a known good wine

Not sure if that makes sense?

Thanks for your feedback though RAB really appreciate it! You're extremely helpful

[Cellar_Rat]

The other obvious option would be to take some wine out and shake it in a glass to see if it releases any CO2, but I don't want to loose any more wine and wouldn't put it back afterwards as its not worth the risk.

It will be fine to add it back. I do it all the time. Fermenting has a sanitising function. Your wine is at its ALL TIME safest when fermenting. Be clean by all means, but folks - really - this is not open heart surgery!

[Gaztops]

It will be fine to add it back. I do it all the time. Fermenting has a sanitising function. Your wine is at its ALL TIME safest when fermenting. Be clean by all means, but folks - really - this is not open heart surgery!

I was understanding that wine will spoil very easily, like not to have alot of head space in DJ or fermenting tub.

Also, i plan on making a 5 gallon must which will involve taking the lid off quite frequently to measure the SG so I can proceed to the next step. I know that after I have done a few wines of the same recipe, I can estimate when the must is nearly fermented out, but in the meantime I'll be opening my ferment to the atmosphere quite often

Gary

[oliver90owner]

taking the lid off quite frequently to measure the SG so I can proceed to the next step.

Why keep removing and testing? I use the bubbler as the initial check - if it is still bubbling merrily, it ain't finished and doesn't need opening - unless it is a Ritchies kit where they suggest that racking early is a good idea. And I don't suppose that will make a great deal of difference if a day or two over, when doing that racking. Interestingly, the 6 bottle kits do not have that suggestion in those instructions.

Patience pays where fermenting is concerned - after all it won't ferment too far!

Also, it doesn't matter if that head space is filled with carbon dioxide - think beer in a pressure keg.

I also know how my ferments are progressing by noting the temperature/heat gain while under my insulated box. It is not difficult to assess how many Watts the yeast is producing. My current 22l ferment is gently raising the temperature over ambient and I can hear the blub, blub, blub from the air lock. They also indicate a range of expected fermentation times and as I am maintaining it close to the advised 20C, the bottom end of the range, I am fairly confident it is going to take towards the longer fermentation time. If it takes longer than that, I am not going to worry about it.

[Cellar_Rat]

I was understanding that wine will spoil very easily, like not to have alot of head space in DJ or fermenting tub.

Also, i plan on making a 5 gallon must which will involve taking the lid off quite frequently to measure the SG so I can proceed to the next step. I know that after I have done a few wines of the same recipe, I can estimate when the must is nearly fermented out, but in the meantime I'll be opening my ferment to the atmosphere quite often

Gary

take the lid off as often as you like, I ferment wine & beer without a lid on in the first place.

There are different rules for different parts of the process. And none of it is set in stone, depending on the situation.

Fermenting wine should always be low in the vessel to allow a layer of CO2 to build up a on top and protect it. 1 L of red wine produces 40 L of carbon dioxide - this will give you enough protection, because carbon dioxide is heavier than air so if the vessel has headspace, carbon dioxide will drive the oxygen off. In sealed tanks, with fruit wines this also prevents oxidisation and discolouration. it also prevents the wine embedding lumps of fruit in the ceiling.

Finished wine should be kept topped up. You are now at a stage (generally) where you want to restrict (not stop) air (21% oxygen) contact with the wine to allow it to breathe and mature.

It has been proved that wine sealed up (stainless & glass storage) - just goes into stasis, it does not mature if it cannot breathe. this is why there is a lot of investment in micro-oxygenation systems and bottle closures which breathe.

You can now get corks of the agglomerated variety that have stated air permeability rate.

Good questions keep them coming and I hope this helps...

[Gaztops]

It's a bit of an art to produce wine and beer of a good standard, there's a lot that needs to be learnt. I'm taking notes all the time so I have the information readily at hand so I don't have to go searching through a lot of posts when the time comes.

Top advice, thanks RAB and Cellar_Rat

[Cellar_Rat]

For beer and wine there are some excellent books. British real ale by Graham Wheeler is probably the only book you would ever need to produce cracking beer.

And Sheridan Warwick produces a book the way to make wine - very much a grape book but it gives you an understanding of the whole process you can then just drop kits in appropriately.

[Gaztops]

Home Brew beer must have come a long way since the 80's. A friend of mine used to make beer from Boots in a kit and you could always tell it was Home made just by the smell, it had an earthy smell.

Thanks for the info Cellar_Rat,

[Cellar_Rat]

Home brew beer has come on light years - particularly the muntons kits - wherry for example. Easy & quick to make - 1 hour to yeast (washed up and done!!) and taste like you are sitting in the local.

All grain is also out there. Bit more work (6 hours but with massive tea breaks) Much more accessible but I had terrible trouble understanding the process - until I read Grahams book, and the light came one!

The old specked hen is gorgeous. Know locally as page 74 ale !!

[Sharpyuk]

Well I've now added all the finings to my first batch, so will rack again in about a week then I can leave it to age..

I've also bought 10x 1 gallon demijohns of eBay, fancy having a go at various fruit / veg wines. I will start by making wine no 1 from the beginners section, maybe make a few different ones substituting the apple juice with other juices.. As well as wine no 2..

I read through wine no 3 and wondered if that would require ageing as normally made from fruit need to age for a year from what I've read..

I just need to go get a few more bit from the home brew shop, such as more air locks and bungs and a few ingredients..

[oliver90owner]

What will you be racking into? I usually rack into D/Js, a hemi-demi and the rest into a suitable bottle. That saves me diluting the wine with expensive shop-bought equivalent (if a new type, like yours will be!) as I can arrange for little head space and only the last small volume to be decided upon - what size bottle to use. If there is any further sediment, a further later racking is easy enough. Maybe (well, it will) reduce the volume and drink/test the rest. Bottling can come later, as required.

My newer fermentaions will have to go into 23/25l glass carboys and be topped off with older batches, if any remain. I haven't got as far as aging wines like CR just yet.

An Angel Blanco I did recently had a haze in the carboy (fined on full lees per the instructions) that was clearly slow to settle (well beyond the instructions). In a couple D/Js it was barely discernable at racking, but the last was really quite hazy. I then waited and waited and finally cleared the last one again. Meanwhile, the others had thrown a tiny sediment, so they all got racked a second time. Such is life, such are the ideal instructions given by the manufacturer. I will try to compare that last DJ with the others when we get to drink the bulk of it.

The Beaverdale kits I have done have cleared quite quickly, but I have not been displeased yet with any kit I have bought. There needs to some lattitude with the instructions - like mostly stretching them out a bit, but don't be dismayed if it needs a further racking. The final result will be worth it.

RAB

[lockwood1956]

I read through wine no 3 and wondered if that would require ageing as normally made from fruit need to age for a year from what I've read..

Wine No 3 is drinkable straight away, but better after 3 months, at about a year it wont get any better

regards
Bob

[Sharpyuk]

Thanks Bob very useful.. I got most of the things I need expect the citric acid, the muslin bags and acid test kit..

I also got a kenridge showcase cab-sav with grape kit (should be fun)

So still a few bits to buy before I can start the wine No1, 2 or 3

Cheers